Los Angeles Circuit

Voda Spa

A note on Voda Spa: it operates out ALLEGEDLY of a former crematorium and has a kvass sauna that smells of yeast; Since we are in West Hollywood … Erewhon & Laurel Supply feel like a must.

LikeMinded

The other Venice entry, and different enough from Teddy’s to justify and encourage visiting both. Like Minded has a gorgeous upper deck and cafe you can grab an Aussie style flat white on your way in or out.

Teddy’s Hot House

One of the two newer concepts in LA, interesting international crowd and lots of regulars; After Venice sessions, eat at Gjusta or Gjelina. The line is long. The wait can be intense. The food is always worth it — salads, sandwiches, Mexican pozole, exceptional baked goods.

City Spa

If you want a piece of bathing history, City Spa — formerly known as Pico Burnside Baths — is where you find it. This is a classic Russian-Jewish banya, the kind of place where Leonard Koren of WET hosted bathing parties; The food is not an afterthought, don’t miss the pierogies. If you can get a massage with Vlad or Serge, clear your schedule: it’s an all-day affair in the best possible sense. City Spa is coed during women’s hours on Saturday, Monday, and Wednesday nights. It makes an exceptional birthday party venue for those who appreciate the ritual. Also Sonoratown up the road for the best bean and cheese burritos in LA.

Beverly Hot Springs

Still in Koreatown, but a different experience entirely. Beverly Hot Springs sits atop what may be the only naturally uncapped hot spring in the city of Los Angeles. The water flows directly into the building — high in silica, leaving your skin feeling silky. On the inside, it feels like a cave grotto, which is either atmospheric or slightly psychedelic to explore your psyche; Maison Matho for a Parisian ham and cheese sandwich or specialty coffee.

Crystal Spa

This is home base. Housed on the third floor of a Korean shopping mall in the heart of Koreatown, Crystal Spa has been the anchor of this circuit since I discovered the magic of Korean jjimjilbangs after moving to LA. No two-week advance reservations required — walk in, get a massage, get a scrub, get right; It’s perched on top of an H Mart, which means you can descend after your sweat for groceries, a fun new drink, or ingredients for the week. Cross the street at night and you’ll find an excellent matcha ice cream at Honeybee.